📖 generic · CBSE Class 11 English medium · HEALTH AND PHYSICAL EDUCATION · Page 5question

S urfing

Chapter 11: Adventure Sports · HEALTH AND PHYSICAL EDUCATION

S urfing The term surfing refers to the act of riding a wave, regardless of whether the wave is ridden with a board or without a board, and regardless of the stance used. Surfing is an event to be inducted in the Olympic Games from the year . Surfing is a surface water sport in which the wave rider, referred to as a surfer, rides on the forward or deep face of a moving wave, which carries the surfer towards the shore. Waves suitable for surfing are primarily found in the ocean, but waves can also be found in lakes or rivers in the form of standing wave or tidal bore.

However, surfers can also utilise artificial waves such as those from boat and the waves created in artificial wave pools. Fig. . : Surfing- Historical Development of Surfing For centuries, surfing was a central part of ancient Polynesian culture.

Surfing may have first been observed by the British explorers at Tahiti in . Do You Know? George Freeth ( November – April ) is often credited as being the ‘Father of Modern Surfing’. He is thought to have been the first modern surfer.

Governing Body The highest governing body for surfing sport is known as International Surfing Association. It is played all over the world. In , professional contests started. That year, Margo Oberg became the first female professional surfer.

Types of Surfing Fig. . : Surfing- . Stand-up Surfing: The modern-day definition of surfing, most often refers to a surfer riding a wave standing up on a Surfboard; this is also referred to as stand-up surfing.

Long surf-boarding and short surf-boarding are the two types of stand-up surfing. Both long and short surf-boarding have several major differences, including the board design and length, the riding style, and the kind of wave that is ridden. . Body Surfing or Body Boarding: The surfer riding a wave on a body board, either by lying on the belly, or drop knee, is called body surfing.

In body surfing, the wave is surfed without a board, using the surfer’s own body to catch

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