Chikankari Chikankari of Uttar Pradesh is the embroidery, which was commercialised at a very early stage. Although ladies do the main work, the master craft persons and organisers of the trade are mainly men. Lucknow is considered the main centre for the work. Originally it was done on white material with white thread.
The main effects produced are shadow work by embroidering on the wrong side of the material, net like surface by tightening the yarns of the fabric with embroidering, and raised patterns on the face of the fabric by knotting stitch resembling rice or millet grains. The past few years have also seen the inclusion of zari threads, small beads and shiny discs ( sitara ) incorporated in the designs. Since it is a commercial activity, the designs and styles keep changing with fashion.