Wool The development of wool is associated with the colder regions like hills of Ladhakh, Jammu and Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh, hills of West Bengal, some N.E. states, Punjab, Rajasthan and a few places of Central and West India. Specialty hair, i.e., the hair of animals other than sheep, (mountain goats, rabbits and camels) have also been used in India. F rom K anchipuram K inkhwabs P iathani B aluchar B utedar B anaras B rocade K ullu S hawl K ashmir J amwar S hawls The earliest references of wool make mention of very fine hair obtained from mountain goats and some deer like animals.
Kashmiri literature of 11th century confirms the weaving of multicoloured woolen fabrics during the period. From the 14th century, the Persian influence led to the production of shawls . It utilised the most complex tapestry weave in a multitude of colours and intricate patterns. The best shawls were made from pashmina and shahtus , the hair of mountain goats.
The Mughal emperors were responsible for promoting this art and shawls of Kashmir became world famous. Like the printed cotton these were a major export item from 18th century. Later embroidery was also introduced in shawls. The designs of the shawls copy the beauty of nature of Kashmir.
The mango motif, also known as paisley , is seen in countless varieties and colour combinations. Akbar is said to have introduced the style of Jamawar shawls. These were large shawls designed in a manner, which were also suitable for making garments ( Jama, i.e., cloak and war meaning yardage). You may have noticed in paintings in museums or illustrations in books, the Mughal rulers usually have large shoulder wraps in intricate designs.
The shawls of Himachal Pradesh are mostly woven in angular geometrical motifs grouped in straight horizontal lines, bands and stripes, one or two placed vertically as well. Kullu valley specifically is known for shawl weaving and several other woollen fabrics like pattu and dohru (wraps for men). In the recent years shawl weaving in other places have also gained importance. Special mention can be made of Amritsar and Ludhiana in Punjab, Uttrakhand and Gujarat.